How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

How to install your wiring, and make it a.) Invisible, or (b).) Nice to look at:

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

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How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

Alrightee! So, you're off to installing all of the big-time components to your stereo system. I know you really really really want to skip the boring parts (like running wires), and go straight to installing the components, and turning on your system. Nnnnnno!

Like I have said countless times before, we're here to do a QUALITY stereo install. Not some janky, lame-o quickie Job. We're installing a stereo for the life of your vehicle, and as such, we spend a little extra time to do things properly. Sooooo, when it comes to wiring, we need to think about how we want to do things first.

To re-Cap. Do you know what components you'll be installing? Even if you don't have allof the components now, hopefully you know what your plans are. This allows you to run all of the wires, so when you finally get your components, you can just mount them, and hook up the wires, and you're ready to rock.

Don't be stupid like most people, and think of components first, THEN think about how to install them. Think of how to install components, get the install parts, THEN install the components. DUH!!! By the way, you'll save time and money with this approach.

Was that a long enough introduction? OK, let's get into what you should know about wiring!

First, buy all of the wiring that you think you'll need, and some extra just for safety. Don't worry, your money won't be wasted!

Next, disassemble your vehicle in the places where the> wiring will be run. When I say disassemble, I mean it! Pull out seats, carpet, panels, everything! Trust me, this will make running wires easier and safer.

If you plan to use any sort of sound insulation or damping material, now is the time to lay it. If you don't plan on using it, why not? This will make your system sound better by lowering noise and by eliminating vibrations. Just do it!

Now, you get to run wires. Run them everywhere they'll be needed. Run power wires, RCA wires, Speaker wires, interface wires, remote turn on wires. EVERYTHING.

Now that they're laid out how you want and need them, it's time to secure them. Vehicle manufacturers use ties everywhere to keep wires organized and out of the way. Now it's your turn! Many many many people skip thisstep, and I don't think it's too smart.

Why?

Because when wires are subjected to vibrations, stress, weather, and other things that are constantly present in vehicles, they tend to wear away. When wires wear away, you get ...

Short circuits!
Vehicle fires!
Ruined components!

Don't risk it, just secure your wires!

If you have amp racks or other items that your wiring will go through, it's time to mount those items, and secure the wiring to them.

OK, OK. Those are the basic steps you'll go through to run wires. But, how do you actually do it? Let's break it down:

1.) Measure distances between where components will be mounted, and what they connect to. For example, measure from the battery to where you'll mount your amp. Also,Don't be stupid. Buy a few extra feet at each end, so you'll have room for error. Also, you'll want to make sure none of the wires are stretched. You want to have some slack at each end. This will make your life much easier.

Other distances to measure:

Head unit to amp

Amp to Speakers

Head unit to cd/dvd changer, mp3 player, navigation system, etc.

Also, before you buy your wires, be sure you know what will work best with your planned components. If you're planning to install a 500 watt amp, and you know that amp will be 17 ' from the battery, use a chart to figure out what wire gauge to use. People like to get all loco in the cabeza with power wire, and spend $ 5 on foot on 0 gauge wire. WHY??? If you don't need it, don't buyit!

2.) OK, so you have all of your wiring in hand, and ready to go. Now is the time to take apart parts of your vehicle. First, figure out where your wires will be run. I usually run my power wire on the same side of the vehicle as the battery. I also usually run my RCA cables down the center of the vehicle. Knowing this information will tell you where you need to remove parts from your vehicle. If you're not going to be running wires in a certain part of your vehicle, then it won't be necessary to take anything apart. UNLESS!! UNLESS!!! UNLESS!!!! You plan to put some sound damping material down. I always recomMend this!

So, here we go. Time for the fun part. First things First. Disconnect the ground (aka negative) wire from the battery.

Pull upspanels! I highly recomMend some sort of panel removal tool to remove panels. This will help protect your panels from breaking.

3.) Time to run wires!

First, we'll run the power cable: Find a hole in the firewall of your vehicle. If you can't find a hole, you might be able to squeeze a power cable through the far corner of your hood, by the windshield and into your vehicle that way. If you can't do that, then you'll have to drill. Every car is different, but one piece of advice is always true: Plan ahead, and be careful! Inspect where you plan to drill the hole, and be sure you won't damage anything in the process. Take it slow, or if you're feeling really nervous, drive your vehicle to a stereo shop, and have them run your power wire through the firewall. Next, run thecable wherever it will fit nicely, and not be visible once you put the carpet back in place. Run it all the way to your trunk (or wherever you plan to have your amp or distribution blocks mounted). Next, secure the cable. Use zip ties, or glue, or even velcro to make sure your power cable stays where it should. Be sure it is not near any moving parts, or rubbing on anything that will strip the insulation. Also, be sure it will not get in the way of anything once you re-install all of the panels, carpet, etc.

Next, let's run your RCA cable (s), interface cables and Remote turn on wire. Again, be sure the negative cable is disconnected from the battery. Disassemble any and all of the panels surrounding your head unit. Pull your head unit out. Next, pull up all of the panels,consoles and carpet around where you'll be running your RCA cable and interface cable. Connect the remote turn-on wire to your head unit's wiring harness. If you are planning to connect more than one or two devices to your head unit's remote turn-on, you will want to look into installing a relay. Next, run the RCA cables, interface cable and remote turn-on. All of the stuff I said earlier about power cables is also true of RCA and interface cables. Be sure your cable is not near any moving parts, it is not rubbing against anything that will strip the insulation, and it is mounted in such a way that it will not show once the panels and carpet are put back in place. Connect the RCA cables to the pre-outs on your head unit, and be sure you know which RCA cable goes towhich channel on your amp. Many RCA cables use colour-coding, so it shouldn't be too difficult. Plug in your interface cable. Now, re-install your head unit. Make sure everything is all hooked up before you put everything back together!!

OK, last step. Let's run speaker wire! This is exactly like running all of the other wires above. Pull up the panels. Run the wires. Be mindful of where you plan to run them. Secure them. Make sure you have a few extra feet at each end of the speaker cable. I know this sounds stupid, but trust me. It's more stupid to spend all of this time running wire only to discover that it's too short. Then, you have to pull the wire up, throw it away, then run it all over again. DUMB!

4.) Secure wires!

Now that your wires arerun, it's time to secure them. There are many ways to secure wires, and not all of them will work at all times. In fact, you'll probably need to use a variety of methods to secure your wires throughout your vehicle. Soooooo ....

1.) Secure wires with zip ties to other bundles of wires.

2.) Secure wires with zip ties to small holes (or create small holes)

3.) Use glue to secure zip ties to your vehicle, then secure the wires with them.

4.) Run wires behind objects that they can be secured to.

5.) Use velcro to secure wires

5.) Secure wires to mounting locations (amp racks, speaker pods, etc)

If you have any sort of custom enclosure or rack for your stereo components, you'll want to find a way to secure your wires to the rack or enclosure. If theseracks or enclosures are designed to be seen, you might want to take some time making the wires visible, and looking good.

In the example of amp racks, you can drill holes where all of the electrical connections go into the amp. Run the wires through these holes, and to your amp. This trick will make your wires look nice and clean, and keep your wires organized.

For speaker enclosures, there are a variety of things you can do to make the wires look good. For plexiglass subwoofer enclosures, people often choose wire that looks good. In addition, the installers will choose top wire hardware (terminals) that are of high quality, and look good. If you want your enclosure to be removable, you can install speaker terminals on the outside of the enclosure, or even installa custom quick-release wiring harness.

Enjoy!
-Honest AEB

How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables

Welding on Mild Steel

Mild steel is defined as any steel that has low carbon in it and about 85% of welding is done using this type of steel. Usually these steels have an AISI series of C-1008 through C-1025. They are the steels that are most often used in construction or industrial fabrication. They are welded through the use of gas, arc or resistance welding.

Welding on Mild Steel

Welding on Mild Steel

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Welding on Mild Steel

Welding on Mild Steel

Mild steels are resilient and they can be bended or twisted or moved into other shapes as they are welded. You can use mild steel sheets or wire to do this type of welding. You can also use it to weld pipes. As an example, you can use mild steel pipes when you want to work within Air conditioning or refrigeration. This can also be used for heating when you want at low pressure.

You can also use steel wire or steelsheets to do welding on mild steel. Mild steel can be used in the following types of welding:

Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW)--this is a type of welding that uses a solid electrode wire that is continuously used as a filler metal. It also uses a shielding gas. The wire that is used is mild steel, and it can be a copper color to protect it from rusting. This will also improve the way that it conducts electricity.

Flux-Cored Arc Welding--this type of welding uses a wire that is covered with flux so that it will automatically give you the shielding gas. This is the favored way of doing welding on mild steels in an outdoor environMent.

MIG Welding--this is one of the easier forms of welding and is also a good idea for welding on mild steel in anindoor environMent. It is one of the first types of welding that beginners learn how to do and it is a bit more flexible than other types of welding. You can also use it to weld other materials like aluminum, nickel or stainless steel.

There are advanTAGes and disadvanTAGes of many different types of welding wire and it is important to know what you want to do before you start. Here are a few tips as you decide to work with welding on mild steel:

Before you start working with mild steel make sure you clean the surface first. Make sure the clamp that you have on the work is tight so that it is a solid connection for the electricity to flow through it. You will also want to make sure that your steel is free of rust, paint or any other debris. Paint or rust will insulateyour steel and you won't get the solid connection.

Many people forget that the welder should be put on a different circuit breaker than other things you are doing, especially when you are working at home. The reason to do this is because you are working with higher heat and it needs more power.

Make sure that the two pieces you want to weld are flush with each other or at lest have a solid joining to prevent any problems with the weld.

Welding on Mild Steel

How to Replace the Main Gear in a Garage Door Opener

It's 06:00 am and you are leaving for work. You press the garage door opener wall button and hear a subtle hum from your electric motor but the door failed to move. If your garage doors springs are intact chances are you garage door openers main drive gear has failed. You can easily inspect your drive gears by unPlugging your garage door opener and removing the metal cover. The main drive gear is made of a white plastic that typically is the weak link in the opener. Many things can cause this gear to fail. Some causes of wear are:

How to Replace the Main Gear in a Garage Door Opener

How to Replace the Main Gear in a Garage Door Opener

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How to Replace the Main Gear in a Garage Door Opener

How to Replace the Main Gear in a Garage Door Opener

or out of balance Garage door (Springs broke or in need of adjustMent)
or Chain to tight to
or Old age
or Excessive use or high cycle
or Factory defect or lack of grease at time of manufacture

Replacing the large white gear is acheap, quick and easy do it yourself repAir as long as you have a few simple hand tools and follow the safety precautions. These gears can be purchased online at a variety of levels of components.

Before you get started it is important for you to have a list of the few simple tools needed to accomplish this project:
or Hammer
or Half inch wrench or adjustable wrench or pliers
or 3/8 "Socket or Nut Driver
or 1/4 "Socket or Nut Driver
or 5/16 "Socket or Nut Driver
Standard or Flat Screwdriver
or 5/32 "Punch or similar

~ WARNING ~
To prevent possible SERIOUS INJURY or even DEATH from electrocution, ALWAYS Disconnect the power cord from your garage door from the outlet before proceeding with any inspection or repAir.

Step # 1
Make sureyour garage door opener is unPlugged. This step insures that no one unintentionally attempts to open or close the garage door while you are working on it or you do not accidentally activate the door while servicing it.

Step # 2
Disconnect the door from the outer trolley by manually pulling the disconnect red rope and manually close the garage door.

CAUTION
The Garage door MUST be in the fully closed position during all repairs and inspection.

Assuring that your garage door is closed will reassure that your door will not fall or make any moveMent that would cause injury or startle you. We recomMend that once the door is closed that you clamp the door down using a vise grip or clamp above one of the rollers to prevent the door from being opened from theoutside.

Step # 3
Slacken the chain tension belts or by losing the tension nut on the garage door opener trolley. Typically this is nut and can be adjusted with a .5 "wrench.

Step # 4
Remove the sprocket or belt pulley retainer cap. Usually this has a clip on the back if you press into it will release.

Step # 5
I always recomMend marking the position of the chain or belt to the sprocket prior to removing. This can easily be done with white out, tape or any other means. This step helps assure that your chain or belt gets reinstalled in the correct position and makes for quick and easy reference if needed later. Remove the chain from the sprocket or belt and then slide the inner trolley to the closed position until it engages the outer trolley. Place loosechain/belt on the end of the rail closest to the sprocket. I typically duct tape the chain to prevent it from falling to the floor and getting all twisted and dirty.

Step # 6
It is now time to remove both end covers and the main housing. The end cover are each attached by three or four .25 "head screws that can be removed with a .25" nut driver or socket. Be sure to unPlug the wire to the circuit board.

Step # 7
Remove the retaining clip and the drive gear for the limits. Also at this time remove the limit switch assembly by squeezing the sides just below the bracket by the drive gears. There is no need to disconnect the wires as it is ok to leave this limit assembly hang by the wires. Do not make any adjustments to the limit assembly screws, this willinsure that there is minimal adjustment needed to the limits after you complete your repair and run your garage door opener.

Step # 8
Now its time to remove the RPM sensor, this can be easily done by unPlugging the wire harness and remove the RPM sensor from the securing tabs.

Step # 9
Disconnect the red, blue and white wires from the motor. It is important that you note where these wires go. The same color wires go to the same terminals on the capacitor red/yellow and blue/blue.

Step # 10
Remove the four 5/16 "hex head screw's that hold the motor assembly to the frame of the garage door opener. Be sure to put your hand under the motor before removing the last screw to prevent the motor from falling. Slide the motor assembly off the drive shaft andplace in a safe place. (Not on top of the ladder for obvious reasons).

Step # 11
Remove the three hex head screws holding the sprocket assembly to the main chassis using a 5/16 "nut driver or socket. Now it is time to decide if you want to replace the main gear only or the enTire sprocket or all chain drive models 1984 to present.

Step # 12
Skip this step if you are replacing the enTire gear and sprocket or pulley assembly. If you are going to replace the drive gear support the drive shaft on a block of wood and drive the lower roll pin/Tension pin out with a 5/32 '' punch. See photo example below.

Step # 13
Remove and replace the worm gear. In most cases it is not necessary to replace the worm gear unless it shows signs of wear. If you wish to replace this gearremove the shaft collar with a 1/8 "hex wrench. Please be sure to note the location of each of these components as you disassemble so you can re-install in proper order. When you receive your gear kit, you will find there are parts not used in your model this is because these kits are universal and work with many models of Sears, Craftsman, Wayne Dalton, Liftmaster, Master Mechanic, True Value and other brands of garage doors openers. Only replace the parts that are used on your garage door opener. Remove the 3 nuts that hold the motor to the frame and then remove the worm gear. Install the new worm gear making sure the roll pin is properly seated in the new gear. Re-install other components in reverse order. After you complete this assembly I recommend you lube the worm gear so you donot forget.

Step # 14
Begin reassembly in reverse order. Be sure to thoroughly lube the main drive gear and that grease is on each and every tooth. Attach the gear and sprocket or pulley assembly to the main chassis with the three 5/16 head screws. Install the assembled motor frame to the chassis with the four 5/16 head screws and reattach the red, blue and white wires; now install the limit assembly and the limit drive gear making sure they mesh properly. You can now install the RPM sensor and reconnect wires. Install the metal cover and end panels, be sure to plug in the circuit board and reconnect photo eye and push button wires.

Step # 15
Reconnect the power cord to the opener and cycle the opener until the sprocket completes a full clockwise cycle. The trolleymust be in the fully down position before installing the chain. Now you can remove the tape from the rail and reinstall the chain. The chain and sprocket reference mark should be close to lining up. Tighten the chain so that the chain is .5 "above the base of the rail at midpoint for" T "style rails and .25 for square tube rails. Secure the chain tightening lock nut.

WARNING
Note when adjusting and testing your garage door motor it is important
to make sure no one is in the path of the moving door.

CAUTION
It is important to know when testing your garage door opener it is possible to over cycle the motor
and have the motor temporarily overheat and stop operating.
To prevent this try and not operate the door opener more than 10 cycles
without giving it 5-10 minutes to cool off

Step # 16
Now run the opener and test to see if the door opens to the correct position and closes to the correct position. If you need to make adjustments use the travel adjustments screws to make fine adjustments. I recommend only making slight adjustments .25 turn or less at a time. For reference one full turn of the screw equals approx 2 "of travel on .5 and .25 HP models and 3" on .75 HP models.

How to Replace the Main Gear in a Garage Door Opener

How to Find a Bad Fuel Injector

If your fuel injected Jeep is running rough like it has a miss on one cylinder, the trouble may be a bad fuel injector. Fuel injection is great when everything is working correctly but sometimes trouble shooting the system can be like shooting in the dark. You can't just remove the Air Filter and look inside like you can with a carburetor logo.

How to Find a Bad Fuel Injector

How to Find a Bad Fuel Injector

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How to Find a Bad Fuel Injector

How to Find a Bad Fuel Injector

I have been working with a 1989 Jeep Cherokee six cylinder recently. The truck did not run when it came to me and I did not know its history.

One I got it running, it had a distinct miss of a dead cylinder. I first checked to make sure it was getting spark to the Plugs. I did this first by using my in-line spark tester. This tool flashes when the coil sends fire to the Plug. All six were flashing. I then pulled the spark Plugsout one at a time and creamed them visually. They all looked fine and all looked the same giving me no clue which one was "the trouble cylinder.

On older engines, you could simply remove the plug wires one at a time to see which one did not make any difference in the way the engine runs. However, I have found that you can't do that on modern electronic ignition systems as the power in the spark plug wire will give you a very uncomfortable zap if you try to remove it while the engine is running. So I don't use that method on modern engines.

Next I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The pressure was within specifications so I moved on to testing individual injectors.

To check the injectors, I used a mechanic's stethoscope. I placed the tip of thestethoscope on each injector body and listened at idle. On the injectors that worked correctly, there was a very distinct ticking sound. On the injector that was giving trouble, there was no ticking sound. I moved the stethoscope back and forth between injectors a few times to get a clear image of the sound that it was supposed to make when it was working.

Before removing the fuel rail to change the injector, I tested the electrical signal to the injector. I made a simple test using a parking lamp light bulb and socket and plugged it into the wiring harness. Since the light blinked, I knew the injector was getting power and must be stuck or bad. You can also purchase a noid light that will plug into the harness, but for a quick check you can make a simplelamp test like I did.

To test the fuel injector firing coil you can use an ohm Meter. Simply disconnect the wiring harness form the injector and place the probes across the two contacts of the injector. An intact coil will read around 15 ohms. However, as seen on this Jeep, an intact coil does not mean the injector works.

Once you have located the injector giving trouble you will have to remove the fuel rail to replace it. See my other articles for how to replace an injector or repAir a leaking injector.

How to Find a Bad Fuel Injector

Diesel Performance Chips-What Are They and How Do They Work?

Diesel Performance Chips have been evolving for over a decade and counting. With the increasing popularity of "TDI" (Turbocharged Direct Injection) diesel engines in passenger cars and trucks, the demand for aftermarket tuning products has also increased.

Diesel Performance Chips-What Are They and How Do They Work?

Diesel Performance Chips-What Are They and How Do They Work?

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Diesel Performance Chips-What Are They and How Do They Work?

Diesel Performance Chips-What Are They and How Do They Work?

These products include but are not limited to electronic devices that I refer to as Diesel Performance Chips. Companies such as Superchips, Bully Dog, Diablosport and Edge, Hypertech and others manufacture devices such as replaceMent ECM (electronic control module) circuit boards, modules that Plug in to the vehicles wiring harness and also programmers and tuners.

The tuners or programmers are probably my favorite, second to modules. Tuners and programmers are pretty much the same thing, justdifferent names depending on the manufacturer. I'll refer to them as tuners for the rest of the article.

The great thing about a tuner is that they Plug directly into the OBDII port usually located under the dash. The OBDII port is a universal port that a code scanner can be connected to read the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes)

When a tuner is connected to the OBDII port, on-screen instructions will guide you through the process of reprogramming the Computer. Trust me, it's way easier than it sounds. The whole process is automated and only takes about two minutes from start to finish.

Most all of the newer tuners are also DTC readers as well which will allow you to check and erase the codes check engine light if the ever comes on. A lot easier than having to take it to amechanic to see why your light is on.

When a tuner's aftermarket programming is uploading to your vehicle or you are done checking the DTC 's, simply unplug the unit and store it away. A vehicle can be returned back to the factory programming at any time.

Modules will plug directly into the vehicles wiring harness. Usually all this entails is following the directions to find the correct plug most often located under the hood. Simply disconnect the plug, connect the module between where the factory plug was connected. Very simple.

If you want to return the vehicle back to stock, remove the module and reconnect the harness the way is way before installing the module. What most manufacturers refer to as an actual "chip" is a replaceMent circuit boardthat will require removal of the ECM and replacing the factory circuit board with an aftermarket unit. I tend to call all of the above Diesel Performance Chips.

The way that Diesel Performance Chips work in general is they reprogram the factory settings of the vehicle to settings that allow the engine to run more efficiently. Settings like fuel flow rate, timing curves and transmission shift points are the three I will explain.

Increasing the fuel flow can actually help the vehicle to run more efficiently, contrary to what one might think. When there is more fuel injected into the cylinder on acceleration, there is less "turbo lag." Turbo lag is the time before the turbocharger builds pressure. Lag is between when you hit the accelerator and when the turbo spools up andcorrects the Air/fuel ratio.

The longer the turbo lag, the longer the time it takes for the engine to burn the fuel more completely. By increasing the fuel, the lag time is decreased, thus making the engine more efficient and giving it better throttle response. One more benefit to more fuel is that overall during acceleration, more boost pressure will be reached giving a more complete burn of the fuel.

The timing curves is now reprogrammed to coincides with the increased fuel. At a higher RPM, advancing the timing will give the engine more time to burn the fuel, and again make the engine more efficient.

Changing the shifting points will also increase efficiency by holding the gear longer under heavy acceleration and keeping the RPM's lower under light acceleration.

THEhope this article was informative and answers some of you questions about the differences between chips, modules, tuners and programmers. For more information, to review vehicle specific products or if you just want to say hi, please visit the website below. The website contains information on alternative fuels and other ways to increase fuel mileage, but the main focus is Diesel Performance Chips.

Your Friend, Lukas L Rethke

Diesel Performance Chips-What Are They and How Do They Work?

HHO Generator Install Kit-Easy to Do Yourself With HHO Generator Plans Free

Why install a HHO generator?

HHO Generator Install Kit-Easy to Do Yourself With HHO Generator Plans Free

HHO Generator Install Kit-Easy to Do Yourself With HHO Generator Plans Free

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HHO Generator Install Kit-Easy to Do Yourself With HHO Generator Plans Free

HHO Generator Install Kit-Easy to Do Yourself With HHO Generator Plans Free

If you have already done your research on HHO generators then you known what these hydrogen on demand systems are designed to do.

If not, here it is in a nutshell.

These HHO generators are an MulticompartMent unit that run off the battery of your car that convert water into Brown's Gas or what has been termed H-H-O (Hydrogen-Hydrogen-Oxygen) through very simple actually. This HHO gas when induced into your Air fuel mix and burned together with gasoline or diesel fuel in the internal combustion engine causes better combustion. Better combustion of the fuel already there will increase the gas mileage significantly.

It gets even better. Another thing the HHO gas mixed with your regular fuel does is decrease the amount ofharmful emissions put out by your vehicle. This is because unfortunately for many years the ICE engine in your has not improved much and is very inefficient.

This is not just someones pipe dream ideas the GovernMent has been testing HHO gas injection for a long time and the published docuMents from 1996, 2003, 2007 all evidence this simple technology works.

How do I set up this HHO generator kit for my car?

The whole setup, which has been termed a Hydrogen on Demand system consists of a water reservoir (with the HHO dry cell design) an multicompartment also known as the HHO generator, some tubing, a few feet of wire and a couple of automotive electrical parts.

After you have all the parts required to install your hydrogen on demand system, youfind an appropriate place under the hood to fit the hydrogen generator install tubing to your throttle body or carburetor logo, install wiring and viola! No external power source is needed as you just need to power it with your car battery.

Parts needed for a Hydrogen on Demand system:

1. the HHO Generator Multicompartment

2. HHO Generator Wiring Harness

3. Tubing for Water Charging

4. Vacuum Hose HHO gas feed

Other Optional HHO Parts:

1. The Optimizer commonly called dual edge map sensor enhancer

2. The Optimizer for O2 sensor commonly called EFIE Electronic Fuel Injector-Enhancer

Thousands of drivers have installed Hydrogen on Demand on their vehicles and are enjoying the savings.

There arefew different ways you could get your HHO generator kit installed and start saving loads of money.

I would not recommend buying one of those "guides" on how to build a Hydrogen on demand system. For what you pay for the reading material you can actually buy the HHO dry cell DIY kit and build your own HHO generator, it really is very easy.

1. You can buy only the HHO generator, we highly recommend the HHO dry cell, and round up the rest of the parts needed to complete your hydrogen on demand system.

2. You can also buy a complete HHO dry cell kits from a reliable source and simply install it according to easy to follow instruction.

For a couple hundred Dollars you too could have your Complete HHO Dry Cell System up and running.

HHO Generator Install Kit-Easy to Do Yourself With HHO Generator Plans Free

Jeep Cherokee XJ Alternator Replacement

One of the more vulnerable points on the otherwise very reliable Jeep Cherokee is the alternator. The alternator is located very low on the engine and is susceptible to damage from mud and water during off road conditions.

Jeep Cherokee XJ Alternator Replacement

Jeep Cherokee XJ Alternator Replacement

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Jeep Cherokee XJ Alternator Replacement

Jeep Cherokee XJ Alternator Replacement

Usually the first indication of an alternator failure will be the check engine light. The ECU controls the alternator and will detect when it is not responding properly to its commands. The second indication will be a drop in volTAGe.

To replace the alternator:

1. Remove the battery and battery tray.
2. Remove the Air box and loosen the bolts on the power steering pump to loosen the belt. It is not absolutely necessary to loosen the belt to reinstall the alternator but it make sit a lot easier.
3. Working from under the Jeep, remove themain power wire from the alternator. This will be the large wire with a cover over the bolt
4. Next remove the control wires. On some older models these are held in place by a somewhat unusual 7 mm bolt. There are four bots total holding this connection in place.
5. Now, working from the top, remove the upper and lower mounting bolts.
6. Note the stamped steel stiffener part on the front of the engine that the alternator bolts. Loosen but do not remove the bolt next to the alternator bracket. This will help get space to reinstall the new alternator.
7. To get the alternator out of the engine bay, you will likely have to raise the engine slightly. The easiest way to do this is with a jack under the engine oil sump. Be sure to spread the load with a block ofwood to avoid damage to the sump.
8. You may also have the slightly bend the AC lines if they interfere with removal of the alternator.
9. Install the new alternator into place.
10. Lower the engine back into place and reinstall the mounting bolts.
11. Tighten the bolt beside the mounting bolt if you loosened it earlier.
12. Replace the control wiring harness.
13. Replace the main wire. And reposition the cover.
14. Tighten the belt.
15. Tighten the power steering bolts and replace the Air box.
16. Remove any wrenches that you may have left lying around.
17. Reinstall the battery tray and reconnect the battery and give it a test run.
18. The check engine light should be gone immediately and the battery volTAGe should beginto climb.

Note that if you allowed the battery to discharge before you replaced the alternator, it is a good idea to charge the battery from a different source before installing a new alternator. The new alternator can be permanently damaged by placing a high charging load on it at its initial startup.

Jeep Cherokee XJ Alternator Replacement

Car Stereo Wiring 101-A Must Read!

I have come across a lot of car stereo systems over the past 10 years or so. There are so many "techniques" to installing head units. Everyone has their own opinion of what is right and wrong when wiring up a system, but just because it works doesn't make it right.

Car Stereo Wiring 101-A Must Read!

Car Stereo Wiring 101-A Must Read!

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Car Stereo Wiring 101-A Must Read!

Car Stereo Wiring 101-A Must Read!

I asked Majestic Modifications what their opinion was on the subject. How do they install so many units and always get it right?

First, if applicable, always use the harnesses. The aftermarket wiring harness will usually take the guesswork out of the installation. These harnesses attach to the vehicle's factory wiring harness and gives you a color coded installation. You just attach red to red, yellow to yellow, etc. But is that all an installershould know?

Starting with your digital multiMeter, find the power sources in the harness. One source will be continuous 12 volts, the other will be the ACC (ignition) 12 volts. These two will go with the yellow and red wires from the aftermarket head unit's harness. They are labeled accordingly. It is usually a good idea to attach the ground wire to the frame of the dash. A lot of head units come with a connector for this already attached to the ground wire. Secure these in place with some solder and shrink tubing. Slip the shrink tubing over one of the wires to be connected and move it out of the way. Connect the wires and dab a little solder on the wires. Let cool and then slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection. Heat with a heatgun/hAir dryer to shrink the tubing to fit.

You can try to look on the internet for the wiring colors, but good luck. They will tell you the "typical" wire colors, but chances are it will be different. Two techniques You can try to find the right wires. Clip the rest of the wires from the factory harness. You can test the Speakers with a 9 volt battery, good to see which Speakers are which. Two wires connected to the same speaker will make it pop. Note which pop makes the speaker and attach it to that speakers wiring from the head unit. I like to turn the unit on and make sure the wires are the right polarity. To reverse wired speaker will not have as good a sound as a properly wired one. Continue the technique until all the speakers areconnected.

The other way you can trace the speakers down is to turn on the head unit, but be VERY careful to not cross any wires. Start with a pAir of wires, and attach them one at a time until you get sound. Note which speaker it is and attach it to that speaker's wires from the wiring harness, taking not of polarity. Continue until all the wires are in place. Zip tie the wire together and neatly tuck them behind the head unit.

Be sure you have a good ground wire connection. Be sure that RCAs or signal wires are running away from any power wires or sources, and are not run parallel to them.

If you want a neat trick, you can attach the 12 volt acc to the illumination wire, and you will be able to turn the unit on with yourparking light switch. Take note, that anytime the unit is on, the dash panel lights will be on too, but you won't notice them in the daytime. The illumination wire is used to turn the factory radio lights on at night.

Not having the wiring harness for your vehicle is not a do or die situation. If you can get the harnesses, save the hassle and time and use it. If you find yourself in a bind, then follow the steps above and get it installed correctly.

Car Stereo Wiring 101-A Must Read!

How to Replace Oxygen Sensor

Okay, so you want to know how to replace your oxygen sensor eh? That's understandable. If you have been told that your sensor is bad or faulty, it will need to be replaced, and what better way to do that than by doing it yourself. Most mechanics will call this the DIY method, and it can be done with a few basic tools.

How to Replace Oxygen Sensor

How to Replace Oxygen Sensor

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How to Replace Oxygen Sensor

How to Replace Oxygen Sensor

What you will need:

*An adjustable Crescent Wrench

*A Flat tip Screw Driver

*A New Oxygen Sensor

Now, because this is an article written on the general process of removing an oxygen sensor, remember that each vehicle is different and could have other things that need to be removed or replaced along the way.

Step One: Locate your Oxygen Sensor

On most vehicles, you will find your Oxygen Sensor located on your exhaust somewhere. On front wheel drive vehicle you will often find it on the front side of the engine when you open the hood. On rear wheel drive engines you will most likely find it located under the car right below the donut gasket. There are often 2 Oxygen Sensors on rear wheel drive engines on either side of the exhaust piping.

Step Two: Remove the Oxygen Sensor

First, you will need to see if your oxygen sensor has a wiring harness that can be removed from the tip of the sensor, or if it will need to be pulled off somewhere on the engine. Remove the harness to make removing the oxygen sensor easier. Then take your adjustable crescent wrench, adjust it to the appropriate size and unscrew the sensor from the exhaust.

Note: It is very useful to have some Penetrating Lubricant around to help you loosen the seal on the Sensor.

Step Three: Put in Your New Sensor

This step will seem a little weird because the best way to put in the new sensor is to have the wiring already connected, then turn the sensor a bunch until the wiring is bound up a bit and then start it into the hole where it needs to go. Then just tighten it into place. It might take a couple of tries, but just remember that you can do it!

Some things to remember before starting this project:

*Make sure you have all tools necessary for oxygen sensor replaceMent.

*Make sure your engine is cold. You will be working around the exhaust and it gets HOT, so make sure your car has had lots of time to sit and cool down.

*Have some gloves and goggles with you. They will protect your fingers and eyes in small spaces. There is usually lots of rust and debris around exhaust that does not feel good in your eyes.

*Don't force it! There is one rule of mechanics that I find most people will ignore which gets them into trouble. If you are forcing it, you are doing it wrong. Your parts only fit in one way, and although it sometimes takes some elbow grease, forcing something in to place will only cause you more trouble!

How to Replace Oxygen Sensor

Tubular Skylights Operation - How Tubular Skylights Work

Tubular Skylights Fill Your Home With Healthy Sunlight

Solar Bright tubular Skylights operate completely on the sun's solar energy. No wiring or switches - just free light with all the positive benefits of natural lighting. The high-impact acrylic dome captures sunlight on the roof during the daylight hours. The flashing housing protects the enTire system from the eleMents. Solar Bright offers flashing to accommodate all roof types and pitches including flat roofs.

Sunlight Enters Your Home - But UV Rays Are Filtered Out

The sunlight captured by the dome, travels through an extremely reflective, mirror-like tube. It bounces several times through the pipe before it enters your home. Our specially designed Miro-Silver® light shaft is able to harness the sunlight even when the sun's position is low in early morning and late afternoon. Even on cloudy days, the tubular skylight works - though the intensity of the light will be slightly diminished. Additionally, our tubular Velux Filter out the harmful UV rays that endanger our health, and fade Clothing, furniture and carpeting.

All the Benefits of Sunlight Without the Heat

Solar bright tubular Skylights operates with virtually no heat gain unlike traditional skylights. As the sunlight travels through the light tube it passes through our exclusive Energy Conservation Kit. The kit incorporates thin, clear polycarbonate lenses that improve the U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient. In fact, our residential units are so energy efficient that they have earned the Energy Star rating.
Only Soft Evenly Dispersed Sunlight Enters Your Home

The attractive ceiling light fixture is designed to evenly spread the captured sunlight into your home. It has an arced prismatic surface that bounces the light in all directions eliminating the "hot spot" effect of traditional Velux. Varying on the models size, our tubular Velux can illuminate the equivalent of up to 300 - 500 watts of light - all for free

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